As a continuation of my last post, I thought I would share some tips on how to refresh hair color between hair coloring. I just recently went back to my actual natural color (but still coloring to cover grey!) after having been a number of different shades of red. As some of you may know, red is a very hard color to keep. I developed a few tricks to refresh my color so it would stick around until my next coloring. My favorite product for this is Ion Color Brilliance Semi-Permanent Hair Color found at Sally Beauty Supply stores. The semi-permanent name is a bit misleading, IMHO, however. There is no developer. It is a temporary color, that they say qualifies as semi IF you use heat. However, even then, it's still not a semi IMO! It's pretty much just straight pigment that will temporarily stain the hair. Heat opens the cuticle so it penetrates deeper into the hair shaft, causing it to take, and last, a little better. I found one bottle lasted me a while, because I didn't use it according to the instructions. Instead, I would add some to my weekly gelatin protein treatments, or if I decided to skip those, I would add it to some condish and leave it on for an hour or so. When adding it to my protein treatment, I would add enough to turn the gelatin a deep brownish red. I never really measured. It would work best if I used the blow dry version of the protein treatment, but it worked fine with out blow drying. When I added it to condish, I would do a 50-50 mix, wrap in plastic and use my dryer on low for 10 minutes or so then just leave it on for another 50 minutes. One treatment would last around a week for me. I wash my hair every 2-3 days, so if you wash more often, it will fade quicker. You can also add a little to your shampoo/co-wash and/or condish every time you wash to help prevent fading. It works pretty much like those shampoos and conditioners that have added pigment to prevent fading.
I had meant to get around to trying out the Ion Color Brilliance Brights in red to see if that added more of a punch since my hair is dark and I think it would have blended nicely, but decided to go back to dark brown for winter before I had the chance. I do plan to try it out the next time I go red though.
Food coloring works too, but it takes a good eye for color to get it the exact color you want, and works best for refreshing red. Beet juice and cranberry juice are also good for temporarily giving reds some extra oomph.
Triple strength coffee is good for brown. As is strong black tea. And I have heard chamomile is good for blonde, though I have zero experience with being blonde.
To use these types of refreshers (coffee, teas, juices) you hang your head back over a large bowl, pour the liquid through your hair, wait a minute or two, and repeat using the liquid that was collected in the bowl. It's easiest to just use two large bowls to pour the liquids over your hair, instead of pouring the liquid from a bowl back into a smaller container, than replacing the bowl to collect the liquid again. At any rate, you will repeat pouring the liquid over your hair anywhere from 5-10 times. And let it dry in your hair if you can, even using a little heat to help it penetrate the hair shaft.
You can also try these refreshers on non-color treated hair to give some added dimension without using chemicals. You can even mix-and-match if you like, using cranberry or beet juice to give brown or blonde hair a reddish tint, or darkening blonde hair with coffee, or even adding a bit of light highlights to brown hair with chamomile (light brown hair, I don't think it will work very well for darker hair).
These are my favorite techniques, though I have tried the refresher masks/glosses and other such products made for refreshing color. They work just fine, but I found that the Ion Semi works just the same, is cheaper, comes in a variety of colors, and you can adjust the intensity.
Showing posts with label help prevent color fading. Show all posts
Showing posts with label help prevent color fading. Show all posts
Friday, January 11, 2013
Tuesday, January 8, 2013
How I prepare for hair color
I have dyed my hair at home for years. I easily get bored with my color and feel a need to change it up, but I don't have the moolah to go get it done at the salon! One thing I have learned over the years is that if you color regularly, you need to prepare your hair for even color absorption. Virgin hair can also benefit, but most likely will take more evenly than regularly colored hair.
At least one day before I plan to color, and preferably longer, I do the following steps to prepare my hair for coloring.
The first thing I do is clarify my hair with sulfate shampoo that contains EDTA and/or citric acid. This removes all manner of build up, including stylers, mineral deposits, and also (this important) lifts some of the left over color from your previous coloring. The reason that's important is because you need to make room for the strands to accept NEW color.
After clarifying, I do a protein treatment. Protein fills in any holes (porosity) in the hair shaft. This also helps the color absorb evenly. I use this recipe for Science-y Hair Blog's gelatin protein treatment. I love this PT because it's cheap, easy, customizable, and it WORKS. Of course, if you aren't the mad scientist type who enjoys cooking up hair concoctions in your kitchen, there are many store bought options. Some options from Sally Beauty Supply are Ion Effective care (mild protein conditioner), Ion Re-constructor (protein treatment conditioner), aPhogee 2-step (strong protein treatment, comparable to the gelatin PT), Joico K-Pak. There are also botique type treatments available online from Spiral Solutions, Curl Junkie, and Jessie Curl (maybe more, I'm not sure..).
I follow this with a moisturizing deep treatment. I prefer to play mad scientist again and mix up my own DT with Generic Value Products (Sally's knock off brand) Conditioning Balm with some honey and coconut oil. I leave that in for at least 20 minutes with 10 minutes of heat, 10 minutes of cool down time. Sometimes longer if I just don't feel like washing it out. I have left DT's in over night, but I let my hair down to DRY because leaving it wet leaves it in a stretched state and prone to breakage.
Don't color the day you wash. Your natural oils will protect your scalp from irritation, so it's best to color on day old (or longer, I have insanely dry skin, so it takes my scalp at least 2 days to build up enough oil to properly protect my scalp).
It's so much easier to spend a couple of hours preparing for your color, than it is to try and fix uneven color once you dye your hair! In some cases, you can't fix it at home and will have to shell out the dough to go to a salon so a pro can fix it.
One last thing, at home coloring works best if you stick within 2 shades of your natural color. This is particularly true if you're going lighter. Darker is less tricky than lighter! So unless you are experienced in going lighter, please don't try to go platinum on your own.
At least one day before I plan to color, and preferably longer, I do the following steps to prepare my hair for coloring.
The first thing I do is clarify my hair with sulfate shampoo that contains EDTA and/or citric acid. This removes all manner of build up, including stylers, mineral deposits, and also (this important) lifts some of the left over color from your previous coloring. The reason that's important is because you need to make room for the strands to accept NEW color.
After clarifying, I do a protein treatment. Protein fills in any holes (porosity) in the hair shaft. This also helps the color absorb evenly. I use this recipe for Science-y Hair Blog's gelatin protein treatment. I love this PT because it's cheap, easy, customizable, and it WORKS. Of course, if you aren't the mad scientist type who enjoys cooking up hair concoctions in your kitchen, there are many store bought options. Some options from Sally Beauty Supply are Ion Effective care (mild protein conditioner), Ion Re-constructor (protein treatment conditioner), aPhogee 2-step (strong protein treatment, comparable to the gelatin PT), Joico K-Pak. There are also botique type treatments available online from Spiral Solutions, Curl Junkie, and Jessie Curl (maybe more, I'm not sure..).
I follow this with a moisturizing deep treatment. I prefer to play mad scientist again and mix up my own DT with Generic Value Products (Sally's knock off brand) Conditioning Balm with some honey and coconut oil. I leave that in for at least 20 minutes with 10 minutes of heat, 10 minutes of cool down time. Sometimes longer if I just don't feel like washing it out. I have left DT's in over night, but I let my hair down to DRY because leaving it wet leaves it in a stretched state and prone to breakage.
Don't color the day you wash. Your natural oils will protect your scalp from irritation, so it's best to color on day old (or longer, I have insanely dry skin, so it takes my scalp at least 2 days to build up enough oil to properly protect my scalp).
It's so much easier to spend a couple of hours preparing for your color, than it is to try and fix uneven color once you dye your hair! In some cases, you can't fix it at home and will have to shell out the dough to go to a salon so a pro can fix it.
One last thing, at home coloring works best if you stick within 2 shades of your natural color. This is particularly true if you're going lighter. Darker is less tricky than lighter! So unless you are experienced in going lighter, please don't try to go platinum on your own.
Sunday, December 16, 2012
Second Day Hair, refreshing techniques
What is second day hair?
Second hair is when you preserve you waves or curls so you can skip a day (and for some lucky girls, 3 or more) of washing and styling. It gives you a break from the sometimes tedious task of styling, and it gives your hair a break from the damage that can be caused from washing and styling. It also helps preserve hair color vibrancy if you color your hair.
For some, second day hair is the unattainable unicorn of wavy-ness. For others, it seems effortless. So don't be surprised if you can't achieve second day hair right off the bat. Some people just can't seem to get it no matter what. For some it takes a few tries.
Probably the most important step is try and preserve your waves the best you can. One of the most popular techniques is to do something called a pineapple. This is where you put all your hair up on top of your head in a very high ponytail (most say to use a fabric covered scrunchie, but I don't. I just use ouch-less ponytail holders). This will keep your hair contained while you sleep. Investing in silk or satin pillow cases can also help preserve your hair because they allow hair to slide and not catch on the fabric (the same principle as not using terry cloth to dry your hair). Satin sleep caps are also an option. If you can stand them. IMHO, they tend to look silly and aren't that comfortable. But I do believe they are the very best way to preserve waves and curls, because they allow the hair to be scrunched over night, and it is completely contained so clumps remain intact and frizz should be minimal.
Refreshing technique #1:
Sprtizing with water, or a curl enhancing/moisturizing spray. I highly recommend using distilled water for refresher sprays if you decide to use plain water or make your own. It has been heated to kill bacteria and molds, and it isn't hard like most water from the tap. I also recommend disinfecting you spray bottle before every fill. I just use alcohol. There are many options for enhancing sprays or moisturizing sprays. For a moisturizing spray, just add some condish and dilute it with some water in your spray bottle. Of course, there are many recipes that can be found all over the 'net for homemade moisture sprays. And you can also buy them. My favorite store bought spray is Shea Moisture Hold and Shine Moisture Mist.
You can also add some Epsom Salts or sea salts to your water/conditioner mix to make a curl enhancing spray. Be careful with the salts, however. They can dry your hair out. And I have found that unless I dissolve them in boiling water they tend to make my hair feel product-y. There are also a ton of homemade curl enhancing spray recipes on the 'net, as well as ones that can be bought. I really liked the old formula Curl Junkie Curl Fuel. I have never tried the new formula, so I can't comment on that one.
At any rate, you may choose just to spritz and go. Spritz and scrunch. Spritz and smooth, Spritz, smooth, scrunch, and diffuse. It's really up to you and what you find works best for you.
Refreshing technique #2:
Some people can just scrunch in a product and be good. Some like holding products (gels, mousse) some like moisturizing products (condish, curl cream). Some like a little hold and a little moisture and use moisturizing jellies (Kinky Curly Curling Custard, As I Am curling jelly) Again, you may scrunch, smooth, smooth then scrunch, air dry or diffuse. It's what works best for you.
Refreshing technique #3:
A wet washcloth/microfiber cloth/flour sack. Take a wash cloth/microfiber towel/ or flour sack towel, or even a cotton t-shirt, and get it really wet. Lean over your sink, and scrunch sections of hair with the wet fabric up to your scalp and squeeze to squeeze water into your hair. Most people notice a lot of frizz with this technique if they stop here. I have better luck using a flour sack towel (smoother texture) scrunching in some flax seed gel, aloe gel, or even a hard hold gel then spraying lightly with my spray bottle and smoothing down before I scrunch excess water out with a dry flour sack towel. I find I do have to diffuse for a couple of minutes with this technique because my hair is wetter than with just spritzing.
Refreshing technique #4:
Supersoaking on DRY hair. The traditional supersoak is done on wet or damp freshly washed hair. But I find I can get just washed looking hair by supersoaking on my dry hair. I fingercomb a little to get any big tangles out. Then I supersoak by bringing my cupped hands full of (barely warm or cool) water up to my scalp. I lean over my over sink, do one side, then half the back. The I switch to the other side and the other half of the of the back. At this point, I usually scrunch in a conditioner. I like Renpure My Pretty Hair is Parched because it is light but very moisturizing. I can then finger comb a little to get the clumps the way way I like them. I might supersoak again at this point to make sure the hair is very wet, then scrunch in a medium to light hold gel (I usually use my Flax Seed Gel thickened with xanthan gum and with honey added for extra hold). Plop for 10-30 minutes, scrunch out excess water and gel with my microfiber towel, and diffuse. It takes longer than spritzing or scrunching in product, but half the time of a normal wash day. I think because even though most of it has been thoroughly wet, the roots have not, and it hasn't AS wet as a normal washing would wet it.
"Refreshing technique #5":
I put this in quotation marks because to me, it's not true second day hair. But if you feel you need to style from scratch but don't really need to wash, you can wet your hair in the shower, maybe scrub your scalp some and do a quick water wash to remove excess sebum and product, then condition with your regular rinse out and style as usual with one modification. A quick water wash may not be enough to remove all your product. So you may need less product on the days you decide to rinse and condition or water wash and condition.
"Refreshing technique #6":
Again, I don't consider it "true" second day hair, but it saves on a wash.
You can rinse and condition in the evening, or at night. Style as usual, but put your hair in a plop. Make sure it is tight (but not so tight it is very uncomfortable). Then go to sleep. I sometimes tie my sleep scarf over the plop to add extra protection. When you wake up, your hair should be mostly dry and may air dry quickly on it's own, or you may diffuse for a few minutes to add extra oomph. You can also do this on wash days. Some people have great success with this technique, while others don't. But my theory is, if you can plop for an hour, than this technique will probably work for you!
Second hair is when you preserve you waves or curls so you can skip a day (and for some lucky girls, 3 or more) of washing and styling. It gives you a break from the sometimes tedious task of styling, and it gives your hair a break from the damage that can be caused from washing and styling. It also helps preserve hair color vibrancy if you color your hair.
For some, second day hair is the unattainable unicorn of wavy-ness. For others, it seems effortless. So don't be surprised if you can't achieve second day hair right off the bat. Some people just can't seem to get it no matter what. For some it takes a few tries.
Probably the most important step is try and preserve your waves the best you can. One of the most popular techniques is to do something called a pineapple. This is where you put all your hair up on top of your head in a very high ponytail (most say to use a fabric covered scrunchie, but I don't. I just use ouch-less ponytail holders). This will keep your hair contained while you sleep. Investing in silk or satin pillow cases can also help preserve your hair because they allow hair to slide and not catch on the fabric (the same principle as not using terry cloth to dry your hair). Satin sleep caps are also an option. If you can stand them. IMHO, they tend to look silly and aren't that comfortable. But I do believe they are the very best way to preserve waves and curls, because they allow the hair to be scrunched over night, and it is completely contained so clumps remain intact and frizz should be minimal.
Refreshing technique #1:
Sprtizing with water, or a curl enhancing/moisturizing spray. I highly recommend using distilled water for refresher sprays if you decide to use plain water or make your own. It has been heated to kill bacteria and molds, and it isn't hard like most water from the tap. I also recommend disinfecting you spray bottle before every fill. I just use alcohol. There are many options for enhancing sprays or moisturizing sprays. For a moisturizing spray, just add some condish and dilute it with some water in your spray bottle. Of course, there are many recipes that can be found all over the 'net for homemade moisture sprays. And you can also buy them. My favorite store bought spray is Shea Moisture Hold and Shine Moisture Mist.
You can also add some Epsom Salts or sea salts to your water/conditioner mix to make a curl enhancing spray. Be careful with the salts, however. They can dry your hair out. And I have found that unless I dissolve them in boiling water they tend to make my hair feel product-y. There are also a ton of homemade curl enhancing spray recipes on the 'net, as well as ones that can be bought. I really liked the old formula Curl Junkie Curl Fuel. I have never tried the new formula, so I can't comment on that one.
At any rate, you may choose just to spritz and go. Spritz and scrunch. Spritz and smooth, Spritz, smooth, scrunch, and diffuse. It's really up to you and what you find works best for you.
Refreshing technique #2:
Some people can just scrunch in a product and be good. Some like holding products (gels, mousse) some like moisturizing products (condish, curl cream). Some like a little hold and a little moisture and use moisturizing jellies (Kinky Curly Curling Custard, As I Am curling jelly) Again, you may scrunch, smooth, smooth then scrunch, air dry or diffuse. It's what works best for you.
Refreshing technique #3:
A wet washcloth/microfiber cloth/flour sack. Take a wash cloth/microfiber towel/ or flour sack towel, or even a cotton t-shirt, and get it really wet. Lean over your sink, and scrunch sections of hair with the wet fabric up to your scalp and squeeze to squeeze water into your hair. Most people notice a lot of frizz with this technique if they stop here. I have better luck using a flour sack towel (smoother texture) scrunching in some flax seed gel, aloe gel, or even a hard hold gel then spraying lightly with my spray bottle and smoothing down before I scrunch excess water out with a dry flour sack towel. I find I do have to diffuse for a couple of minutes with this technique because my hair is wetter than with just spritzing.
Refreshing technique #4:
Supersoaking on DRY hair. The traditional supersoak is done on wet or damp freshly washed hair. But I find I can get just washed looking hair by supersoaking on my dry hair. I fingercomb a little to get any big tangles out. Then I supersoak by bringing my cupped hands full of (barely warm or cool) water up to my scalp. I lean over my over sink, do one side, then half the back. The I switch to the other side and the other half of the of the back. At this point, I usually scrunch in a conditioner. I like Renpure My Pretty Hair is Parched because it is light but very moisturizing. I can then finger comb a little to get the clumps the way way I like them. I might supersoak again at this point to make sure the hair is very wet, then scrunch in a medium to light hold gel (I usually use my Flax Seed Gel thickened with xanthan gum and with honey added for extra hold). Plop for 10-30 minutes, scrunch out excess water and gel with my microfiber towel, and diffuse. It takes longer than spritzing or scrunching in product, but half the time of a normal wash day. I think because even though most of it has been thoroughly wet, the roots have not, and it hasn't AS wet as a normal washing would wet it.
"Refreshing technique #5":
I put this in quotation marks because to me, it's not true second day hair. But if you feel you need to style from scratch but don't really need to wash, you can wet your hair in the shower, maybe scrub your scalp some and do a quick water wash to remove excess sebum and product, then condition with your regular rinse out and style as usual with one modification. A quick water wash may not be enough to remove all your product. So you may need less product on the days you decide to rinse and condition or water wash and condition.
"Refreshing technique #6":
Again, I don't consider it "true" second day hair, but it saves on a wash.
You can rinse and condition in the evening, or at night. Style as usual, but put your hair in a plop. Make sure it is tight (but not so tight it is very uncomfortable). Then go to sleep. I sometimes tie my sleep scarf over the plop to add extra protection. When you wake up, your hair should be mostly dry and may air dry quickly on it's own, or you may diffuse for a few minutes to add extra oomph. You can also do this on wash days. Some people have great success with this technique, while others don't. But my theory is, if you can plop for an hour, than this technique will probably work for you!
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